ROME, ITALY: CAPITOLINE MUSEUMS, CACIO E PEPE, ROMA AT NIGHT
This is the second half of Day 1 of 6 days we spent in Rome this past March 2018. Part 1 of this day if you haven’t read it. This part has a lot of art at the Capitoline Museums (reliving my art history class days) and includes dinner and drinks in Trastevere.
So! The first part left off as we were leaving the Roman Forum.
We headed directly to the Capitoline Museum cafe for an afternoon pick me up.
The cafe has a nice view of the city too.
Took in the views before heading back down and around to the admissions desk.
As we were getting our tickets, another older American couple was there asking for new ipads with audio tour because the battery ran out. The admissions person was confused, and it turned out they were in there for FOUR HOURS listening to every audio stop. What were we in for?
This is one of the first things you see when you enter. In my last part in the Roman Forum, the largest basilica building there used to have this huge sculpture of Constantine. Here is what is left! Pretty amazing. Imagine how big and grand it would have felt in that space.
So the Capitoline Museums are three buildings that house art and archaeological finds. The museum was opened to the public in 1734 by Clement XII and is considered the first museum in the world where all visitors could come enjoy art. The buildings themselves are works of art, two worked on by Michelangelo.
Boy with Thorn! Hellenistic bronze sculpture of a boy pulling a thorn from the bottom of his foot.
The Capitoline Wolf! Plus baby Romulus and Remus
Weird to learn about the Capitoline Wolf in art history class and see it IRL.
I remember seeing a cult statue of Artemis when I visited Ephesus, Turkey in 2011. Here’s a copy!
This exact sculpture visited the Getty in 2012! My coworker Steve made this video about its installation. SO nuts to see it here.
There’s just something I love about students sketching on the floors all around the room.
Spiral staircase by some excavations
Snakes and sculptures and bronzes oh my
Might be St. Sebastian? The eerieness of the sculpture was amplified by the red marble and lighting for sure.
The Getty Villa also has a sarcophagus with faces missing. I imagine shopping for my own sarcophagus in Ancient Rome and picking out a nice one and then asking for a custom face. But it’d be me on both of the bodies.
In the land of medieval paintings now
I’ve never seen like…graphite or something added on top of a layer of paint
A touch rendering available for folks with vision impairments. You can “see” the paintings by feeling the lines and depth.
Mary Magdalene looking like an Instagram model
There was an underground tunnel you could walk through to connect to another building that overlooked the Roman Forum.
So beautiful to catch this view at sunset
Entered the other building to walk through briskly, it was almost dark already.
I’ll leave it with this incredible pose.
Back down Michelangelo’s steps
Back to our side of the river, Trastevere.
Trattoria Teo in the distance. We have early reservations.
Popped into this little bar, The Hole.
I got a negroni and to our surprise we got some cheese, meats, bread, etc. I had read about and heard about “aperitivo” but somehow forgot and we were SO delighted to partake in some pre-dinner munching.
I was told to try the Roman specialty, cacio e pepe pasta. The flavor of the sauce was so delicious, but the noodles weren’t my style.
It was fun to eat in a packed restaurant, so much energy.
I got lemon! Good night, the next day we have a big day in Vatican city!
Thanks for reading! Much love friends.
Ahhhhhh, this is so lovely! You went to so many places, thanks for transporting me back there 🙂 Could really have some italian food right noooow! Btw, you didnt have run-ins with gypsies?
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APERITIVO IS THE BEST THING
When I did a little trip travelling around Italy at 19, we took full advantage of those aperitivo buffets. So goooood.
I think the statue of the man tied by his hands and feet might be of the satyr Marsyas, who was flayed by Apollo hence the use of red marble. I imagine the scenario going down like it does in Buffy when Willow flays Warren.
Reading this post at work made me look up flights to Rome and also decide to have pasta for dinner.
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I was so sad we only took advantage of aperitivo one time, truly depressing.
Ahh, yes Marsyas. The Villa has an equally “sexy” Marsyas without the red marble streaks though…
How was your pasta!
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I wish aperitivo was a thing here… so much better than stale crisps or pork scratchings, or super expensive gastropub food!
My pasta was good, but probably not as good as in Italy!
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